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- #Helicon remote stackshot manual#
- #Helicon remote stackshot windows 10#
- #Helicon remote stackshot software#
I think I get much better results with changing the focus point instead of changing the camera or subject location. I am using a 2 TB external solid state drive. This last weekend I did a panoramic focus stack of an ear of Indian corn that was 7 focus stacked images stitched together from a total of 968 raw 61 mp files. You then get a set of active buttons to change the focus:
#Helicon remote stackshot software#
You can "manually" control the focus point in the Remote control software by changing from AF to MF in the software, not on the lens. I would set the focus range on the lens to full.
![helicon remote stackshot helicon remote stackshot](https://heliconsoft.com/focus/help/common/HeliconRemote/img/1376_Macro-Rail-w-Camera-Tripod_133x133.jpg)
#Helicon remote stackshot windows 10#
I am running on a Windows 10 Dell laptop connected to the a7riv with WiFi.
#Helicon remote stackshot manual#
The 90 mm macro has a short throw on the "manual" focus ring, it is not truly manual and rather limited, but you can change the focus point of the lens by using Sony software, Image Edge Remote Control free software. I have used both a macro rail and in camera focus. I just bought a Sony a7riv, my first camera in a very long time, I actually bought a Sony 90mm macro lens first while deciding on which body to purchase. For outdoor work, I would try manually moving the focus ring. So my suggestion is if you are doing your work indoors you should try tethering your camera to a PC (that is, if your camera allows that). In summary, a really good rail for 1:1 is overkill in my opinion. You can tether your camera to a PC and use software to control focus. Also, you do not necessarily need in-camera focus bracketing. And if you feel that doesn't work and you want a focus rail, you don't necessarily need to go out and get a high-end expensive one which are some of the ones you mention. There are also inexpensive products which attach to the focus ring of a lens to allow for easier focus movement (see link below). You should be able to at the very least manually move the focus ring in safe enough increments to then stack using Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker. You really do not need a focus rail for 1:1 magnification. I have not tried it but I will do next days. He told that he would stack freehand - just in burstmode moving over the subject to the front and back (maybe even multiple times). Recently I saw an interview with a famous macro photographer. I think Panasonic has it and I could imagine that Olympus has it, too. I think that there are companies out ther that offer something like camrange as on-board solution. The idea of camrange is good - but if it does not cotrol your camera in a way that is useful for your work or does not work stable in this job, I would stay away. Have a look at the ratings at Amazon und you may get an idea why I would recommend stackshot. The reason I mostly ask is bc the 2 techniques are completely different in that Stackshot varies the physical (fixed) focal point whereas Camranger (or in camera stacking option) alters the focal point of the lens group itself. New gear starting out will be Sony A7r4 and several AF macro lenses. I’m deciding on a new system to incorporate stacking into my rekindled macro interest workflow (finally).
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